


These
choices are intensified in decisions we make all during the growing
season, especially about thinning and leaf pulling.
For example, much of the fruit for this vintage came from our
oldest-planted blocks at the northernmost border of the Santa Lucia
Highlands appellation, now fully mature. At these blocks, we pulled
leaves from the east side of the vines a few weeks before we
expected to harvest grapes, so the afternoon sun gave the clusters
an amber-gold hue, almost like the glow of a light suntan. In
another block, further to the south and warmer, the nearly
horizontal canopy of our “trentina” trellis system protected the
clusters by allowing only flecks of sunlight on the fruit throughout
the afternoon. The result was a complex, slow-ripened flavor that
beautifully complemented the fruit from other blocks.